There is something about flying that adds to the mysticism
of a place. Each and every time that I fly anywhere – whether it’s somewhere
foreign and unknown to me or even if landing back home – I find myself captivated
by the sights around me as I make my way from the airport to my intended
destination. In a foreign land it’s no doubt the excitement of the unknown and
the anticipation of the unexplored. While at home it’s mostly nostalgia of the
old “stomping grounds” – the visual reminders that my memories are indeed right
where I left them amongst the familiar buildings.
Obviously, landing at Atatürk airport in Istanbul and taking
the bus to Taksim Square strongly evoked the first feeling within me. Even
though I was quite exhausted from a full day of travel, I wanted to take in as
much of the city’s essence as I could within those first moments. What struck
me almost immediately were the imposing domes of the famous mosques which dot
Istanbul and their minarets extending ever upwards, piercing the skyline. They
spoke of the city’s glorious past as the capital of the Ottoman Empire which at
its greatest extended all across the Middle East, North Africa and well beyond.
As we continued onwards, I was surprised as the multi-lane road passed right
under the ancient remnants of a Roman aqueduct. The structure served as a concrete
reminder that even before it was Istanbul, it was Constantinople – initially the
eastern capital of the Roman Empire and then later its only capital after Rome
fell. When at last we arrived in Taksim, a massive square lined on all sides by
hotels, businesses, restaurants and coffee shops, I discovered the modern heart
of the city.
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| The view of the Beyoğlu district (where I stayed) from Topkapi Palace |
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| Istiklal Street |
It was here in this square that I made the realization that
I would not be feeling that familiar nostalgia of home again for quite a long time.
It was right after a Turkish man tried to befriend me in an attempt to gain a
few lira by shining my shoes. Unfortunately for him I was too busy gawking at the
sights to look down and be concerned about a soiled spot on my shoe – if it
even existed at all.
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| The New Mosque near the Spice Bazaar |
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| The Hagia Sophia |
After spending the past week there, I know I've barely
scratched the surface of the city’s history, but I feel like I understand the
overarching essence: both geographically and culturally it is where the east
meets west. The Bosphorus Straight running directly through the city may
separate the European and Asian continents, but it still endows the city with
the cultural aspects of both continents. Women in full Burkas mix with others
in tank tops and shorts on streets, traditional Turkish cuisine is advertised
next to KFC and Starbucks, and the cell phone towers on the surrounding hills
mimic the minarets in the Old District of the city. Walking through the streets
and exploring the major sights I definitely knew I was in a cosmopolitan city
like any other in Europe or America – it had its own unique feel, but was all
somehow vaguely familiar.
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| The Bosphorus looking out across to the Asian continent |
I left Istanbul for Çanakkale this morning; it’s on the
coast near the ruins of the ancient city of Troy and the battlefields of Gallipoli. I had a wonderful time in
Istanbul and I will be back at the end of September to spend a few more days
exploring before I catch my next flight. In the meantime I’m excited to
see the rest of Turkey and more deeply explore the culture of this fascinating country in between continents.
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